Year-Round Landscape Calendar by USDA Hardiness Zone

Published May 11, 2026

Quick Answer

Landscape work runs on a zone-shifted calendar — every task happens 2-4 weeks earlier moving south one hardiness zone, and later moving north. Use this guide as a hub: each row links to a deeper guide on the technique. Verify USDA Hardiness Zone at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov (the 2023 update reset many zones a half-step warmer than the 2012 map).

Detailed Guide

How to read this calendar

USDA Hardiness Zones run from zone 3 (coldest, average annual minimum -40°F to -30°F) to zone 10 (warmest, +30°F to +40°F). The zone number determines first frost, last frost, the species that can overwinter, and the timing of every seasonal task. The tables below cover zones 4-10, which contain about 96% of the U.S. population.

Within each zone, microclimates shift the calendar by 1-3 weeks. South-facing slopes and urban heat islands run early; north-facing slopes and rural valleys run late. The first year in a new yard, track first and last frost on your specific lot — it is rarely identical to the zone average.

Plant calendar — when to plant what

Cool-season vegetables and turf go in when soil hits 40-50°F. Warm-season goes in after last frost when soil hits 60°F. Perennials and shrubs go in spring or fall — avoid summer planting in zones 7+ unless irrigated heavily.

Zone Last spring frost First fall frost Cool-season turf seed Warm-season turf seed/sod Trees & shrubs (best)
4 May 15-30 Sep 15-30 Apr 15-May 15 or Aug 15-Sep 15 n/a (too cold) Apr-May or Sep
5 Apr 30-May 15 Oct 1-15 Apr 1-May 1 or Aug 15-Sep 30 Late May (limited) Apr-May or Sep-Oct
6 Apr 15-30 Oct 15-30 Mar 15-Apr 30 or Sep 1-Oct 15 May (transition zone) Mar-May or Sep-Nov
7 Apr 1-15 Oct 30-Nov 15 Mar 1-Apr 15 or Sep 1-Oct 30 Apr 15-Jun 15 Feb-Apr or Oct-Nov
8 Mar 15-30 Nov 15-30 Sep-Oct (cool-season summer-stressed) Mar-Jul Oct-Mar
9 Feb 15-Mar 1 Dec 1-15 Limited; overseed Bermuda with ryegrass Oct-Nov Mar-Aug Oct-Feb
10 Jan 30-Feb 15 Dec 15-Jan 15 (or none) Overseed Oct-Nov only Year-round Nov-Feb

Prune calendar — by species, by zone

Pruning timing depends more on species than on zone, but the calendar dates shift by zone. See the tree-trimming guide for the full species table.

Species group Zone 4-5 Zone 6-7 Zone 8-10
Oaks (winter only — oak wilt) Dec-Feb Dec-Feb Nov-Jan
Maples (avoid sap rise) Feb-Mar OR Jul Feb OR Jul Jan OR Jul
Fruit trees (pre-bud) Late Mar-early Apr Late Feb-Mar Jan-Feb
Roses (forsythia bloom) Late Apr-May Mar-Apr Feb-Mar
Spring-flowering shrubs (lilac, forsythia, azalea) Within 4 wks after bloom Within 4 wks after bloom Within 4 wks after bloom
Summer-blooming shrubs (panicle hydrangea, butterfly bush) Late Apr Mar-Apr Feb-Mar
Evergreens (within last-year green wood) May-early Jun Apr-May Mar-Apr
Crape myrtle (no "crape murder") n/a Feb-Mar Jan-Feb

Fertilizer calendar — N-P-K timing

Fertilizer follows the grass type, not the zone alone. Cool-season turf takes most nitrogen in fall (Sep-Nov) when roots build reserves; warm-season takes most nitrogen in early summer (May-Jul) during peak growth.

Turf type Spring application Summer application Fall application Winter
Cool-season (KBG, fescue, ryegrass) 0.5-0.75 lb N / 1000 sq ft at green-up None or 0.5 lb slow-release if irrigated 1.0-1.5 lb N total split Sep + late Nov (highest-priority feed) None
Warm-season (Bermuda, Zoysia) 0.5 lb N at full green-up (soil 65°F) 1.0-1.5 lb N total May-Aug, split 0.5 lb potassium-heavy (0-0-50) for cold tolerance None
St. Augustine 0.5-1.0 lb N at green-up 0.5 lb at midsummer 0.5 lb in early fall None
Centipede 0.25-0.5 lb N at green-up None None None (centipede is a low-N grass)

Never exceed 1 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft per application — higher rates burn the lawn and run off into stormwater. Use a slow-release source (urea coated with sulfur or polymer, 25-50% slow-release) to spread the response across 6-10 weeks.

Most states limit lawn fertilizer P (phosphorus) on established lawns to soil-test confirmed deficient cases only — Maryland, Virginia, Minnesota, Wisconsin, New York, New Jersey, Maine, and Vermont have specific lawn-fertilizer phosphorus bans. Check the bag for the 0 in the middle of the N-P-K number on established lawns.

Treat calendar — weeds, pests, diseases

Treatment Trigger Zone 4-5 Zone 6-7 Zone 8-10
Pre-emergent (spring) Soil 55°F at 1" depth / forsythia bloom Late Apr-May Mar-Apr Feb-Mar
Pre-emergent (fall — for poa annua, henbit, chickweed) Soil 70°F dropping Sep Sep-Oct Oct-Nov
Grub control (preventive) Beetles flying Late Jun-Jul Jun-Jul May-Jun
Grub control (curative) Visible damage; pull-back turf test 5+ grubs / sq ft Sep-Oct Sep Aug-Sep
Chinch bug treatment (warm-season turf) First damage signs n/a Jun-Jul May-Sep
Scale insect dormant oil Late winter dormancy Mar Feb-Mar Jan-Feb
Anthracnose / leaf spot (fungus) on shrubs Wet spring weather May-Jun Apr-May Mar-Apr
Brown patch / dollar spot on turf Humid nights >65°F Jul-Aug Jun-Aug May-Sep
Fall armyworm (warm-season turf) Local outbreak alert Aug (rare) Aug-Sep Aug-Oct

Irrigation calendar

Zone System start-up System winterization
4 Late May Mid-Oct
5 Early May Late Oct
6 Mid-Apr Early Nov
7 Early Apr Mid-Nov
8 March December (light freezes only)
9 Year-round; reduce winter Not required; back-flow test only
10 Year-round Not required

See How a Sprinkler System Works for component details.

Month-by-month summary, all zones

January-February. Prune dormant trees (oak, maple, fruit). Tune mower; sharpen blades. Order spring seed and pre-emergent. Plan any hardscape installs to book contractors for May start.

March. Soil temperature tracking begins. Apply pre-emergent at 55°F. First fertilizer for warm-season at full green-up in zones 8-10. Sharpen and tune irrigation; pressure-test before full start-up. Plant cool-season vegetables in zones 6-10.

April. First mow for most zones. Pre-emergent for zones 5-6. Spring perennial planting. Mulch refresh — 2-3" depth, kept 2" off trunks (no "mulch volcanoes"). Aerate cool-season lawns on compacted clay only.

May. Plant warm-season annuals after last frost. First nitrogen feed for cool-season turf if not done. Begin grub monitoring in southern zones. Watch for brown patch on St. Augustine in zone 8-10 humidity.

June. Peak growth across all turf. Mow weekly at correct height. Begin water management at 1" per week. Treat chinch bugs in warm-season turf. Apply preventive grub control 2 weeks before adult Japanese beetle emergence.

July. Raise mowing height 0.5" on cool-season for summer stress. Avoid nitrogen on cool-season; apply 0.75 lb on warm-season. Birch pruning window opens. Deep-water trees in heat-stressed zones 7-10.

August. End summer fertilizer on cool-season. Plant fall vegetables in zones 5-7. Begin overseeding prep for cool-season fall renovation. Watch for armyworms across the South.

September. Cool-season fall renovation: aerate, overseed, fertilize. This is the highest-impact lawn-care month for fescue and Kentucky bluegrass. Plant trees and shrubs in all zones. Plant spring bulbs in zones 4-7.

October. Continue fall fertilizer on cool-season. Final mow before winter at standard height. Overseed Bermuda with annual ryegrass for winter green in zones 8-10. Apply fall pre-emergent for poa annua. Plant garlic and spring bulbs.

November. Last cool-season fertilizer (the "winterizer" feed) before ground freezes. Drain or blow out irrigation in zones 4-7. Wrap young tree trunks against sun scald and rodent damage. Apply dormant oil to shrubs with overwintering scale.

December. Plan next year. Oak pruning safe window opens. Sharpen pruners. Review winter weather and adjust the plant list for the next zone shift. Order seed for spring.

When to Hire a Pro

Landscaping has three tiers of work and the right answer depends which tier the homeowner is working in.

Tier 1 — weekly/biweekly maintenance. Mowing, edging, mulching, debris cleanup. A two-acre lot takes a 4-person crew 30-45 minutes and runs $50-$100 per visit. DIY-eligible on lots under 0.5 acres if the homeowner has the equipment and the time. Outsource above 1 acre once mowing becomes a 2-3 hour weekly commitment.

Tier 2 — seasonal applications and renovations. Pre-emergent, fertilizer program, aeration, overseeding, grub control. A licensed pesticide applicator (state-licensed; ask for the license number) runs a full-season program for $400-$800 per acre. DIY savings are real but timing windows are tight — pre-emergent windows close within 7-10 days of forsythia bloom.

Tier 3 — design, install, structural work. Hardscape, irrigation install, tree removal, retaining walls, planting design over $5,000. Always pro work. An ICPI-certified contractor for pavers; an ISA-certified arborist for trees; a state-licensed irrigation contractor for sprinklers; a licensed landscape architect for designs that touch grading, drainage, or structures.

A reasonable hybrid: DIY tier 1, hybrid tier 2 (pro pre-emergent and fertilizer; DIY mowing and overseeding), full-pro tier 3.

Related Reading

Frequently asked questions

How do I find my USDA Hardiness Zone?

Enter the ZIP code at planthardiness.ars.usda.gov. The USDA updated the map in 2023 with 13 years of new climate data — about half of all U.S. ZIP codes shifted a half-zone warmer than the 2012 map. Plant tags and seed packets typically reflect the older map by 1-2 years, so verify against the current USDA map before relying on the tag.

When is the best time to plant a tree?

Fall is best in zones 6-10: warm soil for root growth, cool air for reduced top-growth stress, and 4-6 months to establish before summer heat. Spring is the alternative in zones 4-5 where the ground freezes hard enough to heave fall-planted root balls. Avoid summer planting in zones 7+ unless irrigating heavily; avoid winter planting anywhere the ground freezes.

Why is fall the best time to fertilize cool-season grass?

Fall fertilizer drives root growth and carbohydrate storage rather than top-growth. The September and late-November feeds (about 1.0-1.5 lb of nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft split between them) produce greener, denser, more drought-tolerant spring lawns than equivalent spring fertilizer. Skipping fall nitrogen and over-applying in spring is the most common cool-season lawn-care mistake.

Do I need to fertilize warm-season grass in fall?

No nitrogen, yes potassium. Warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine) entering dormancy do not need top-growth, but a 0.5 lb potassium-only application (a 0-0-50 product or similar) about 4-6 weeks before first frost improves cold tolerance and winter survival rates.

When should I apply grub control?

Preventive grub control (chlorantraniliprole or imidacloprid) goes down 2-3 weeks before adult Japanese beetle emergence in the local area — typically May-June in zones 8-10, June-July in zones 5-7. Curative grub control (trichlorfon or carbaryl) goes down in September when damage appears and a 1 sq ft turf pull-back shows 5+ grubs. Skip preventive treatment unless the lawn has a documented history of grub damage.

What is the right mulch depth?

2-3 inches across beds, refreshed annually as the bottom layer decomposes. Always keep mulch 2-3 inches off tree trunks and shrub crowns — the "mulch volcano" piled against bark holds moisture against the trunk, invites borers, and encourages adventitious roots that girdle the tree. Hardwood mulch lasts 12-18 months; pine straw lasts 6-9 months; rubber mulch lasts indefinitely but does not improve soil.

When should I overseed my lawn?

Cool-season grasses: late August through early October, when soil temperatures fall from summer peaks but air temperatures still favor germination (60-75°F). Warm-season grasses rarely need overseeding — Bermuda and Zoysia recover by stolons and rhizomes. Winter overseeding of warm-season turf with annual ryegrass (in zones 8-10) goes down in October-November for green color through winter dormancy.

Do I need to winterize my landscape?

Zones 4-7: yes. Drain or compressor-blow irrigation lines before the first hard freeze; wrap young tree trunks against sun scald and rodent damage; mulch tender perennials with 2-3" extra mulch after the first hard freeze; apply dormant oil to shrubs with overwintering scale or mite issues. Zones 8-10: less critical — back-flow test on irrigation, watch for hard-freeze events, cover citrus and tropical plantings when overnight lows drop below 28°F.

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